Situated on the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, New Brunswick’s east coast is a mix of sandy beaches, barrier islands, protected wetlands, and shallow harbours. Fishing settlements were established along the coastline wherever residents could access the water, and throughout these communities today there is no shortage of evidence of Acadian ancestry. Blue, white, red, and yellow houses, along with buoys, lobster traps, and fishing buildings, are found throughout. This vast but often overlooked part of the province is therefore rich in history, culture, and unique landscapes, all the ingredients required for a great adventure.
While writing Hidden New Brunswick & PEI, we travelled to Cormierville, north of Shediac, to paddle across to Cocagne Island, one of the region’s last islands to be abandoned. We determined that Cormierville Wharf provided the easiest access point from which to circumnavigate the island and explore its former settlements, hidden beaches, and obscure rock formations.
Departing the public boat launch, we paddled into open water, staying clear of Sandy Point, a large sandbar protruding westward from the island. This low-lying beach is surrounded by shallow water that can produce dangerous breakers even on the calmest of days. Our first destination was the natural wonders found on the island’s northeast coast. As we rounded the island’s northern headland, known as Big Cape, the low-lying beaches and fields of seagrass disappeared, replaced by 4–5 metre cliffs that offered few places of refuge should we encounter trouble. Despite this, we edged closer to shore, where the cliffs revealed a collection of caves, sea arches, and water-sculpted rock formations carved into the island’s 300-million-year-old sandstone. After rounding a small headland, we found ourselves in a slightly curved inlet, where a sandy beach at its end allowed us to safely pull ashore.
With our feet on firm land, we found ourselves among sandstone cliffs and white sandy beaches, resembling more a Caribbean island than one off the coast of New Brunswick. The experience was made even better when we realised, we were completely alone on the island. There is no ferry service, and visitors are therefore limited. We did, however, discover that coves on the island’s east side are frequented by locals who come to spend the day swimming, fishing, and camping. As a result, several well-travelled trails wind through the island’s forest, connecting its many beaches and points of interest.
Trading our sandals for hikers, we set off south, eventually arriving at a long sandy beach backed by tall stands of birch and maple trees. After wandering the beach and adjacent trails, we made our way back to our kayaks. Before setting off again, we traced the shoreline north, exploring the many wave-cut tunnels, arches, and twisting cliff faces. Boasting many similarities to the famous rock formations of Prince Edward Island, just visible on the distant horizon, Cocagne Island’s weak sandstone and sedimentary rocks have been eroded and carved over thousands of years.
Launching from the beach, a chop had formed from the mid-day sun, and once again we found ourselves pushing farther out into the Strait to avoid the shallow waters and shoals along the island’s east side. We paddled the entire 4.0-kilometre length of the island before reaching the narrow spit of land extending from its southern end. Portaging our kayaks across part of the spit to save distance, we found ourselves on the protected west side of the island, overlooking Cocagne Harbour.
Cocagne Harbour has attracted people for millennia. Rich in fertile land, dense forests, and sheltered waters, it is not surprising that the Mi’kmaq were the first to establish homes and settlements here. A new wave of people arrived in the 18th century following the end of the American Revolutionary War and the signing of the Treaty of Paris, when the English, now the region’s governing authority, encouraged settlement throughout the area to strengthen their land claims.
After finishing a quick lunch, we launched from the island’s southern tip and soon found ourselves in the quiet waters of Cocagne Harbour. It was along this stretch of shoreline that the first European settlers built their homes. We did not paddle far before encountering the first significant reminder of this early settlement: a long, narrow pile of gravel and large boulders extending from the shore and slipping beneath the waves after roughly 80 metres. Several large pieces of timber were visible along its sides, what we assumed to be one of the several wharves constructed by the island’s residents.
During colonization, much of the island’s land was granted to Acadian settlers seeking to re-establish homes in the Maritimes following the Acadian Expulsion between 1755 and 1764. These early settlers included Paul Hébert, Joseph Guéguen, Jean Bourg, and Jean-B. Deprez, who were granted the right to farm and live on Cocagne Island in 1791.
Leaving the wharf behind, we came upon the first of several large clearings that, unlike the rest of the island, contained lush grassy fields instead of towering forest. With the sun beginning to dip, we made one last detour, paddling ashore at the base of a steep, loose gravel hill atop which lay our destination. The loose soil and glacial till that made the hill difficult to climb also allowed the island’s early residents to successfully establish farms here. Reaching the top, we walked through knee-high grass toward several rectangular depressions marking the former locations of houses. Many contained foundations built of beach rock and mortar, with at least one still holding rotting wooden beams and scattered debris.
Since the early 1800s, land parcels across the island were handed down from one family member to the next. Many generations came and went, and by the early 20th century only a few families remained. In 1900, Joseph Guéguen’s great-great-grandson moved his family to the island and constructed a large house on his ancestral land, not far from where we had explored. The Guéguens joined several others who continued to call the island home, but with no amenities, residents were required to regularly cross Cocagne Bay for services and supplies. By 1945, increased employment opportunities and access to services on the mainland led to the island’s abandonment. In the years that followed, many remaining houses were towed across the frozen harbour on sleds pulled by convoys of trucks. A few of these houses are still in use in nearby communities today.
Thankfully, we did not have to worry about ice when re-entering our kayaks for the final leg of our journey. We continued north, wondering what other stories and relics might still be hidden on the island.
The body of water between Cocagne Island and the mainland is known as The Pass and today is patterned with parallel lines of nets and buoys used for oyster aquaculture. While these pose obstacles for boaters, we remained clear by staying close to shore, hoping to catch glimpses of the island’s migratory birds and wildlife. The island’s fertile, flat landscape has left behind wetlands and thriving ecosystems, making it common to see great blue herons, eagles, ospreys, sandpipers, and ducks.
While most of the island lies more than a kilometre from the mainland, Sandy Point, which extends westward from the island, creates a narrow passage just 180 metres wide. Transiting the pass, we found ourselves in open water once again, and with the light fading, completed our paddle back to Cormierville Wharf.
